Відео

I wonder if there's a way you could have some light strip in the kitchen change to orange/yellow when the system goes into pre-alarm? I mean, it's not necessary at all. But it _would_ be cool.

5:50 This is too funny! Every time I watch this I always laugh at this part because you get so annoyed over a dog bark. I wouldn't get annoyed unless if a dog is barking so loud and obnoxiously. And that bark was pretty funny too. (But everyone is different I guess).

*I just had a fire drill at school today.*

In my personal opinion, pre-alarm shouldn’t be used because every second counts in a real fire and or smoke situation. I find it ridiculous that Disney World has pre-alarm set to 2 minutes on attractions but that’s just me lol

at 3:15 is the door closer attached to the door thats its supposed to be closing and the door mounting location?!

I was going to recommend swapping the heads from the bedroom and the stairs to see if one head is less sensitive, but the explanation you made on the sensitivity setting makes sense. If they were set the same then I would try that.

20:34 My school has that same fire alarm

Like many commercial fire systems when a alarm goes off it automatically calls the fire department. Does your system call the fire department or do you have to call the fire department yourself?

This is one hell of a middle school. The entire property just looks so good

Try putting an annunciator for the garage system next to the house front door pull.

I agree that smoke alarms are unreliable more often than they should be, so I also installed a fire alarm system in my house monitored by an American monitoring company, ADT. I don't recommend getting it monitored because it already sends emails and notifications to your phone without monitoring, and the monitoring fees are at least 100 USD each month, which is extremely expensive. Overall, the system is exceptionally high quality and has a pre-alarm to prevent false alarms. I have had the system for nine years, and it has picked up a real fire in an oven caused by debris being left in the stove, which got me and my family safely evacuated and quickly notified the fire department before the fire spread further. The system also does CO as well. Just yesterday, my house had a dangerous outlet that sparked so horrifically it split in half and crumbled into pieces, but I was much less worried even knowing there was an active fire hazard because of the fire alarm system. I encourage everyone who reads this to stay as safe as possible by at least getting residential smoke and co-detectors in recommended areas of the house. Stay safe and even safer with fire protection.

great video! im writing a mod for Minecraft (fabric 1.19.2) that adds some fire alarm devices and exit signs. i currently have a BG-12 pull station, a white exit sign, and a key for the pull station.

nice and nicely explained

Jaxon or what ever how you say his name

It sounds like the alarms went off to getther

Dog is going crazy

It's like last time in November it went off

problay a brownout i live in tennseee so ya

Nice video and nicely explained 😊, does Notifier/Honeywell make any multisensors ?

The cast iron skillet returns again, causing an alarm that isn't false and the system worked like how it should

Jackson: GRRRRRR me: be quiet lol

Nice! Soooo cool that i shows you the percentage of smoke in the smoke chamber on the announciator

You need to do July testing

Nice to see your system working as it should!

I think that it would have been concerning if it didn’t go off. The system was doing its job.

Perfect system! Not only are low frequency sounders good for the rooms, but code 3 especially because I once saw you put them in continious, and they hurt my ears pretty bad, and horns (especially for me) are bad because they will increase panic attacks no matter if it is a system sensor horn or a Wheelock horn. Also I thought for a while that the sounders were horns but you didn't call them horns once.

I was actually going to ask you to test the pre- alarm feature of the smoke detectors in a monthly system test. Nice to see the system working and protecting your house. Great video! Keep up the good work!

fire

Nice video

At 5:45 I meant to say those devices in corridor and stairwell are less sensitive. Thanks for watching!

If i ready learn is i use 5v for safe

Rip

You have to admire his idea even if it is very shaky. For a young person to have this kind of inventive idea is something. I hope he doesn't get killed first.

How long have you been working with electrical systems?

Your Channel Icon Is The Notifier Icon!

You guys aren’t required to have red painted boxes and conduit for fire alarm systems in Canada?

I'll collect bells

❤

my fire drill in pps 28: REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

It's good to see this series again I needed to eat something so thanks for teaching me

Will you take. A break for college 😊

I'm just informing you that you can get a propane tank and have a truck fill it up whenever you need it. We have a 500-gallon propane tank that we get filled 2 or 3 times a year. We run our stove, oven, water heater, and heat.

Hello Nic, I just bought an emergency light and the wires are red and white. Red being 120AC and the white being Comm. How would I wire that?

You need to do July testing

It’s not may it’s July

Lol

In regards to the issue of powering the dampers off the building AC supply and being reliant on a successful transfer to emergency power to ensure the damper opens I would say your best option would be to power it off DC from the generator battery. The datasheet of the LMB24-SR damper motor says it can accept 19.2 to 28.8 V DC so you could just use a little 12 V to 24 V DC-DC converter to power it from the generator starter battery, it's only 1.5 W when moving so the battery and maintenance charger could easy supply that. You should also be able to remove the relay by wiring it different, unfortunately at the moment I don't think you've wired it correctly. You seem to be applying 24 V AC across the Y and U terminals to open it, however only Y is used for control, U is an output for the position feedback signal. It previously opened when you connected it to the transformer because it was powering the Y control signal from the U output position signal through the winding of the transformer as you suspected. It goes to 50% because that's that point where the feedback signal matches the control voltage, likely about 5V. Also don't know about controlling it with 24 V directly, it likely does has input protection but it's not designed for continuously applying 24 V, just small transients, doing so will cause the internal protection components to overheat and fail over time. To solve this you can just use a 500 ohm resistor as the datasheet recommends, BELIMO even sells this as a pre-made heat shrunk cable, part number ZG-R01. But anyway this has been a cool project to follow!